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BALTRA ISLAND

Home to the main airport - Baltra Island

The first stop for many travellers will be Baltra Island which is where you find the main airport for all Galapagos Islands cruises. It is from here that you bus to the southern point of the island before picking up a ferry or a tender ride to your waiting vessel.

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BALTRA ISLAND

Area: 21 km2 or 8 mi2
Maximum Altitude: 100 m or 328 ft
Human Population: Mostly occupied by the Ecuadorian Navy & the Ecuadorian Air Force personnel.

Baltra Island, also known as South Seymour, takes prime spot in the middle of the Galapagos Islands. Yet it is not its geo-position that makes it worthy of notice. In fact, it is the topography that brings fame to Baltra. After all, it was a low-lying island created by uplifts of volcanic activity, that had spewed lava from under the ocean, until it had cooled, as the flat plateaus we see today.

The Building of Baltra Island Air Base

To the outside observer, Baltra Island remained a fairly non-descript place, until the infancy of WWII, when it was reputed that Franklin Delano Roosevelt showed up on the ship USS Houston and deemed Baltra to be a perfect base, in the Pacific, to protect the Western approach to the Panama Canal. The US forces needed an airbase to cover this angle and presto, Baltra became the arrow in their quiver.

Work began in February 1942 and by the end of May, two months later, Baltra had its own mile-long airstrip. Runways were soon joined by buildings, including hangars and barracks for 1,000 troops. Even an outdoor beer garden, bowling alley and cinema followed to appease the GIs.

This was no holiday camp. The conditions were incredibly harsh, as described by Elanor Roosevelt, after one visit, “deplorable”.

To the hardened fighters of the US Sixth Air Force, Baltra was simply known as “The Rock”. And they were deemed to be the toughest fighters in the force.

When the war ended, the military base was handed back to the Ecuadorian goverment. Every local head of household was gifted one building, many of which were then carefully deconstructed and moved to other islands, like San Cristobal and Santa Cruz. New homes suddenly began to evolve out of the building material.

As for the runway, it still retained its use as the main airstrip for the Galapagos Islands. However, it was not until 1963 before the first commerical aircraft landed there. Tourism to the Galapagos Islands had been born. 

Today, Baltra Island still serves as a military base for both the Ecuadorian airforce and navy. But for the wider world for travel, Baltra is the primary fuelling station for the boats operating from Santra Cruz.

 

BALTRA PIER - "MUELLE DE LA BALTRA"

Many of todays travellers will enter the Galapagos Islands via Baltra and through Seymour Airport, before clearing customs and meeting up with their guides or boat reps. They will then be escorted, bags and all, to an awaiting bus where they will either head to Aeolian Bay to meet the cruise ships, or to the "Muelle de la Baltra" or boat pier on the Itabaca Canal.  Ferries transport passengers from this pier and many of the boats run tender or zodiac shuttles to their mother vessel. 

To the uninitiated, Baltra is a barren and arid land. Even as your plane makes its final descent to the airport, you see a completely remote wilderness unfold below you. Vegetation is sparse; a mixture of salt bush, cactus and Palo Santo trees. Soil is barely in existence, a mixture of reddish, suplhurous, volcanic rock and wisps of dried grasses. Yet the seemingly dormant island is far from sleepy. Birdlife thrives everywhere, from the blue footed boobies dropping like darts onto fish prey in the water, to the frigate birds. To many, this is only a taste of an enormous adventure soon to begin.

SEALONS OF BALTRA

Pinched between the islands of Baltra and North Seymour is a flat, sandy islet that lies in the channel there. This tiny parcel of land and is called Mosquera, home to one of the largest populations of sea lions in the Galapagos Islands. For travellers, this is a wonderful chance to observe these creatures from a close and safe distance, along with the the scurrying Sally Lightfoot Crabs. Not to be left out are the plentiful Lava Gulls and other coastal birds that flit and feed along the shoreline

ONGOING CONSERVATION ON BALTRA

The creation of a wartime US military base was more than likely a significant contribution to the demise of wildlife on Baltra. In fact, in the early 1930s, the neighbouring island north of Baltra was noted to have no iguanas at all, despite having almost identical habitat and vegetation. That inspierd the wealthy Californian industrialist G. Alan Hancock, to launch an expedition to transfer iguanas to North Seymour. Throughout 1931-1932, 70 land iguanas were transferred as part of the Hancock Expedition.

Sadly, by 1954, the land iguanas were extinct on Baltra.

Many causes were thought to have contributed to the ecological stress and eventual demise of iguanas. Naturally, the building of the airbase and the ensuing destuction of habitat was high on this list. However, the introduction of goats, cats and dogs were major contributors to this plight too.

In 1980, a new program was devised to reintroduce the species back into Baltra. Several iguanas were transported from North Seymour to an iguana breeding centre in Santa Cruz.  Eleven years later, in 1991, 35 young iguanas were reintroduced back into Baltra. By 1997, scientists had counted 97 iguanas on the island. Within another decade, the population had grown to 420 iguanas. 

 

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