ISABELA ISLAND blue footed boobies on rock slider

ISABELA ISLAND

The biggest of the Galapagos Islands & a wildlife paradise for cruise travellers

Isabela Island is one of the most exciting islands, providing such a vast choice of habits for birds, reptiles and mammals alike, not to mention those that live under the sea too. 

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ISABELA ISLAND

Area: 4,670 km2 or 1,803 mi2
Maximum Altitude: 1,707 m or 5,600 ft
Human Population: Local population of approximately 1800

Isabela Island is by far the largest island in the Galapagos archipelago, stretching 120 kms from top to bottom. If you amassed all the other islands together, they would fit comfortably on Isabela.

It was first visited in 1684 by the English buccaneer Ambrose Cowley, who surveyed the Galápagos Islands during his 1683-1686 circumnavigation of the world. He named it Albermarle Island after the Duke of Albermarle. The location provided perfect shelter and safe anchorage for seafarers, particularly at Tagus Cove on the north west. It was frequented by pirates, buccaneers, and whalers who plied their trade in the region. However, it was not until 1835 that Charles Darwin pulled up at Tagus Cove on the HMS Beagle.

In 1893, Antonio Gil, a well-known Guayaquileño, or noted local from Guayaquil, arrived at the Galápagos. After visiting many other islands first, he eventually colonised Isabela, creating the southern town of Puerto Villamil, named after the freedom fighter José de Villamil. Not long after, he the town of Santo Tomás was created in the highlands.

Villamil began its life as a centre for lime production, where they burned coral that was harvested from local coastal waters. On the other hand, Santo Tomás became the centre for a sulphur mine based in the caldera. Another venture included the commercial production of coffee at a nearby plantation. Due to water limitation, the coffee plantation was only moderately successful.

By 1974 the population had grown to 450 residents on Isabela. This number has increased in each official census, with the total in the 2006 census reaching 1,749. Today it is believed to be over 2,000 people living there. 

 

SIERRA NEGRA

Sierra Negra Volcano is one of the most exciting examples of a volcano in the Galapagos Islands. It is considered to have the second largest caldera of any volcano in the world, measuring 

10 km across from north to south and 9 km from east to west.

Getting to the Sierra Negra is no easy adventure. It involves a 45-minute drive from the Puerto Villamil, followed by several hours of walking or horseback riding.

Volcán Chico is key destination on the northeast corner of the volcano. It is the fissure of a parasitic cone that last erupted in November 1979. As such, visitors experience the excitement of walking across recent lava flows. Yes it also offers stunning vistas of Isabela’s nearby volcanoes, as well as those on distant Fernandina Island. For the more adventurous and fit travellers, a longer hike takes you to the other end of the caldera. There you can find a system of fumaroles, known as the Sulfur Mine. Here one can see sulfur in the form of crystals that have been deposited on the fumaroles for thousands of years.

TOP 4 SITES: VILLAMIL LAGOONS, TORTOISE CENTRE, WALL OF TEARS & TINTOREAS

Four visitor sites are easily accessible from Puerto Villamil — Villamil Lagoons, Tortoise Center, Wall of Tears, and Tintoreras. The first three are accessible by foot while a panga ride is required to reach Tintoreras. An interpretive trail runs from town, through the Lagoons, and ends at the Tortoise Center, approximately 1.5 km from town. The beach and lagoons near Villamil are the best sites in the archipelago to view migratory birds. Black-necked stilts and flamingos are two of the most common resident species.

The Tortoise Center of Isabela was completed in 1994 and houses tortoises from the populations of southern Isabela, many of which have experienced relatively high levels of poaching within the last 10-20 years. Visitors can see both hatchlings tortoises and the older breeding animals.

The Wall of Tears is an interesting historical site, usually visited by tourists staying in Villamil for a few days. It is a 6-km walk (one-way) from town (it is possible to get a ride half way). The trail passes the Villamil cemetery shortly after leaving town, with tombs of the first settlers. About half way to the Wall, the trail passes a white sand beach with surrounding lagoons where all four species of mangroves that exist in Galapagos can be seen. The trail continues through the dry zone until reaching the Wall. A penal colony existed on Isabela from 1944 to 1959. The Wall of Tears was built by the prisoners to keep them busy. It stand 5-6 m high, 3 m wide and is approximately 100 m long. It is a testament to a period of cruelty and torture.

To reach Tintoreras, a group of small islets off the coast, visitors must take a dinghy ride. The small bay of completely tranquil turquoise water provides habitat for sea lions, sea turtles, marine iguanas, rays, and other species. The bay is connected to a shallow crevice of crystalline water that is frequented by sharks. The relatively short loop trail is primarily on lava. Marine iguanas nest on the islet and sharks can be seen in the crevice where they rest during the day.

OTHER TOP VISITOR SITES

Here is some other information from the Galapagos Conservancy:

MORENO POINT: At first glance, Moreno Point appears to be a lifeless lava flow typical of hundreds of others in the archipelago. However, its black surface at the base of Cerro Azul is dotted with numerous lagoons containing a wide variety of life. Commonly seen species include flamingos, paint-billed crakes, white-cheeked pintails, and common gallinules. The trail branches at a couple of points to enable the visitor to observe more of the area. The lava flow is very young and has several endemic species known to be early pioneers in barren lava fields.

ELIZABETH BAY & MARIELA ISLETS: while no visits are allowed on land, this visitor site is included in many tours to the western islands. The visit is by dinghy and snorkeling is also allowed.

The lagoon at Elizabeth Bay is a resting and feeding place for sea turtles. The mangroves surrounding it are principally red and black mangroves. Visitors will also see rays, flightless cormorants, penguins, pelicans, lava herons, and other species.

The Marielas Islets, just outside the bay, are home to many penguins and visitors can usually observe them both on shore and swimming nearby.

URBINA BAY: A long, loop trail leads the visitor away from the beach and into the arid zone of the island. Here visitors may have the chance to see giant tortoises, land iguanas, and flightless cormorants (near the coast). The most unique feature at Urbina Bay is the result of an uplift of the island in 1954, when a 6-km stretch of coral reef was raised up 5 m, stranding the coral heads above sea level with the new coastline more than a km away. However, exposed to the air, the coral heads are rapidly deteriorating.

TAGUS COVE: A favorite site of the early pirates and whalers, many of these early visitors wrote their names on the cliffs along the shore. The oldest include the Phoenix in 1836 and the Genie in 1846. The name Tagus comes from an English war ship that passed by the islands in 1814 looking for giant tortoises. A short, steep hike passes Darwin Lake, which sits within a tuff cone. It is approximately 9 m deep and filled with salt water. This site is an excellent place for viewing landbirds, including ground and tree finches, hawks, yellow warblers, large-billed flycatchers and even sometimes the woodpecker finch. An occasional land iguana or giant tortoise can also sometimes be observed. A dinghy ride along the cliffs provides viewing of the geologic features as well as penguins and other bird species.

CONSERVATION CHALLENGES ON ISABELA ISLAND

Villamil is the most beautiful townsite in Galápagos, with its long, white-sand, palm-lined beaches and several brackish-water lagoons frequented by pink flamingos, common stilts, whimbrels, white-cheeked pintails, and gallinules.

The majority of Isabela’s residents live in the port town of Villamil. Until recently, the population was primarily involved in fishing and agriculture and had little connection to tourism.

Then in the 1990s, development for tourism began in earnest. A small airport was completed in 1996 for inter-island flights.

The number of hotels grew from a single hotel in 1980, to three in 1990, to 13 hotels by 2006. The number of bars and restaurants has grown from only two in 1980 and 1990 to 18 in 2006.

However, the town still retains its relaxed attitude in contrast to Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz and Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristóbal. There are several visitor sites accessible from town by car, foot, and dinghy.

ALCEDO VOLCANO

Alcedo Volcano was a visitor site of the Galápagos National Park until the start of Project Isabela in the late 1990s. Visitors could make the many hour hike to the rim to view the caldera and experience the giant tortoises. One of the largest tortoise populations in Galápagos lives on and in Alcedo – both on the outer and inner slopes as well as along the rim and on the floor of the caldera. For decades this population survived with the presence of feral donkeys. However goats finally crossed the Perry Isthmus from Sierra Negra to northern Isabela sometime in the late 1970s. The population explosion that resulted when they reached the lush highlands of Alcedo devastated the landscape, destroying the forests and causing massive erosion. The tortoises and much of the natural world of Alcedo was endangered. After years of planning, preparation, and training, the field work of Project Isabela, aimed at eliminating large mammalian exotics from northern Isabela, began in April 2004. By 2006 the job was completed – goats and donkeys no longer roamed the northern portion of the island. The vegetation is recovering rapidly and both reptile and bird species are beginning to thrive once again. Perhaps one day the Park will re-open this amazing visitor site.

MANGROVE FINCHES

Although most land birds in Galápagos are still relatively abundant, the Mangrove Finch is considered one of the rarest birds in the world, with less than 100 individuals in existence. It inhabits two small sections of coastal mangrove forests at Playa Tortuga Negra and Caleta Black on the northwest coast of Isabela Island. To ensure the long-term conservation of this species, the Charles Darwin Foundation and the Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust began in-depth studies in 2006 and have confirmed that populations still exist at three sites on Isabela. However, the finch’s natural habitat and the species itself face threats from climate change, human activities, invasive species, and disease. If this species were to be lost, it would be the first bird species to become extinct in Galápagos since Darwin visited the islands nearly 175 years ago.

As part of the Mangrove Finch Captive Rearing Program, the first mangrove finch eggs were collected in the wild and hatched in captivity in early 2014, followed by a release of 15 captive-reared mangrove finches back to their native home on Isabela. Concurrently, research is ongoing to discover means of controlling one of the biggest threats to mangrove finches and other land birds: the invasive avian parasite Philronis downsi.

PENGUINS & CORMORANTS

The on-going, collaborative penguin-cormorant project is crucial for the long-term conservation of these vulnerable, flightless species. Their inability to move easily within the archipelago and their vulnerability to predation and global climate change make them excellent indicator species for ecosystem health. Annual censuses on Fernandina and the western coast of Isabela provide essential data to determine whether the populations are stable, increasing, or decreasing, and to diagnose the causes of changes in their populations and provide the Galápagos National Park with scientifically-based recommendations for management to ensure the protection of these two endemic seabird species and their habitat.

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